Thursday, July 22, 2010

Mini hints

Mini hips and tints

Over the years I have owned loads of Minis (real ones).In that time I have built up a list of tips and hints I think will help other Mini owners enjoy and take care of their Mini. I have heard many more but I know all these work! So here goes, in no particular order...


The Marigold ignition soulution.

Want a cheap and effective ignition shield that still allows you access to the surrounding area? Get an old marigold glove, cut the tips off the fingers. Disconnect spark plug 1, feed it through the finger, refit it. Repeat for the other spark plug leads. When all the fingers are filled, cable tie the ends of the fingers closed. Cable tie the cuff around the distributor. Nah nahhh! Just don't use the pair that are under the sink or you are for it!


Carb oil.

'What kind of oil should I use in the carburettor dashpot?' I find the best oil to use in the dashpot is ATF (Automatic transmission fluid), also known as power steering fluid. The reason for this is ATF stays the same thickness (Viscosity) whatever the temperature. This means the piston rises and falls the same whether hot or cold.


Corroding battery terminals?

After cleaning the offending terminal (Boiling water is quite good!) Simply smear the terminals with Vaseline. Petroleum jelly conducts electricity but keeps the moisture off. Also good for electrical connections. Don't use copper grease, it doesn't work!


Battery cable shorts?

If you drive like me (A nutter!) It wont be long before the insulation is stripped from the main earth lead (Bottom of bulkhead, drivers side) This can cause starting and charging problems at the least. (At worst it will burn all the underseal off and make your car smell funny!) While the cable is in good condition, disconnect the battery then disconnect the lead in the engine bay. Feed it under the car and slide some 5/8" heater hose onto the cable. About a foot long will do. Refit the cable and slide it down to the edge of the bulkhead. Cable tie it in place. Nah nahhh!


Selector shaft woes.

First, if you are lazy like me, park the Mini front downhill. This limits the leak! Ha ha! But if you insist on replacing the seal, hammer the old one in further then fit the new seal. Mini spares now do a small sleeve that works better but by the time you have ordered it the motivation has gone!


Thermostat anger cure!

When you have to remove the thermostat for any reason, warm the car up! The studs like to break, the bolts like to sieze and the housing usually welds its self on. If you take the car for a run first, give it 5 minutes, CAREFULLY let the pressure out of the radiator (Big thick oily rag, turn cap very slowly) then slacken the bolts. Saves lots of hassle, tears, swearing and kicking the bumper!


Brake pad hassle saver.

Take the lid off the master cylinder when pushing the pistons back when changing pads. If you dont, pressure builds up behind the seals in the master cylinder and flips them round rendering it useless.


Brake adjuster problems.

most Minis nowadays have discs on the front but 90% still have drums on the rear with the dreaded square brake adjuster. The one that likes to sieze or snap off or round! If yours has rounded, you can weld a nut on. This allows you to use a more user friendly spanner on it. The resultant heat from the welder is also useful for freeing it off.If the square part has broken off or you don't have a welder, you can fit the brake backplate off a Rover (1990 on) Metro. They are very similar but the Metros adjuster is removable. Breakers yards are full of them!When you get the blighter moving cut a small piece of tubing, similar in diameter to the brake adjusters thread. Slit it down the middle, cover the brake adjuster threads with copper grease and slide the slit tubing over them. This will all but stop the damn thing siezing again. Finally, make sure you adjust them correctly. I find if you wind up the brake adjuster up until the wheel locks then turn it back one lobe is usually enough. Naturally make sure everything is working before you adjust any cars brakes. I.E. Handbrake cables, quadrants, levers all moving freely.


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